The vibe: Understated yet masculine, with reclaimed Douglas fir tables and muted hues of gray and brown. A corner jukebox stocks everything from Johnny Cash to M.I.A.

The crowd: A flawless blend of sweet (wayward innocents from the Broadway strip) and tart (the almighty league of cocktail nerds).

Best seat: Though Baird and Smith apparently wanted the space to have "egalitarian seating," where there's no best seat, the tables next to the windows that overlook Romolo alley are the best in the house, especially on warm nights, when you can gaze out at the North Beach street scene.

Killer app: The 15 Romolo folks have dubbed their food seasonal carnival fare, with such tidbits as smoked pork sliders ($6) with cabbage slaw, jambalaya croquettes ($4) and funnel cakes ($5) sprinkled with powdered sugar. The crispy dogs ($6) feature Fatted Calf franks wrapped in corn tortillas and fried.